"Он-сайт Марафон" и программа "Скалы
гостит в Македонии.
C 30 сентября в Демир Капия (Македония) проходил очередной
семинар Александра Кленова для подготовщиков трасс на естественном
рельефе. В этот раз, компания будующих "rout setters"
была из Гамбургской секции DAV.
В процессе подготовки возникло 12 маршрутов от 5с до 7в категории
трудности, которые станут финальными трассами скального фестиваля
в Македониии, который пройдет в формате "On-sight Marathon"
12 -14 октября 2012.
12 октября - день заезда и регистрация в кафе под кодовым
названием "Кучкин" , Демир Капия, Македония
13 октября - лазание в фестивальном формате "Climbing marathon".
От восхода до заката скалолазы стараются пролезть "ред поинтом"
максимальное количество трасс набирая баллы в зависимости от трудности
трассы. Зачет проходит в двух категориях:
1. Группа A лазающих до 6с+ ,
2.Группа B лазающих от 7a и выше.
До 20-00 необходимо предоставить результаты судейской колегии
21.00h - награждение победителей "Climbing marathon".
Награждение пройдет в клубе и плавно перетечет в местный кофе бар.
"On sight marathon" для лучшей пятерки мужчин и женщин
групп А и В который выявит абсолютных победителей фестиваля.
В тот же день пройдет награждение и конечно, не удастся обойтись
У кого есть время приезжайте!
Билет от Москвы до Скопье от 10 до 15 тыс.руб. От Скопье електричкой
2 часа до Демир Капия стоимость примерно 200р. Проживание с питанием
можно уложится в 15 евро.
Виза Россиянам и Казахстанцам в этом году не нужна. Погода последние
две недели 25-30 градусов днем.
"International route-setting seminar on the nature rocks and
CLIMBING FESTIVAL & "On-sight Marathon-2012", Demir
October 2012 - Demir Kapija,
(From Skopje - 117 km, from Ohrid - 195 km)
Strengthening of friendship and an exchange of experience - cultures
between fans of mountains and rocks from the different countries
of the world. Promoting healthy sporting lifestyle. Creating teams
of route setters for making and maintaining routes. Promoting rock
climbing on the nature rocks. Climbing with local climbers and international
guests. Development of the rocky area Demir Kapija as perspective
place on the Balkans for trainings of rock-climbers, climbers, tourists
and fans of outdoor activities. The experience transfer from the
strongest climbers to beginners. Seminar and the On-sight Marathon
festival - a component of the Alexander Klenov's long-term public
program - "Rocks for everybody"
DAV and Alex Klenov.
The program is aimed at climbers, alpinists, tourists and for everybody
who is keen on active rest irrespective of level of rock-climbing
30.09.12 - 7.10.12
"International route setting's seminar in the natural rocks-
" Route setting Ethics
" Exchange of experience
" Conducting training for participants according to international
standards of safety
" Estimating of routes difficulty
" Practical route-setting
e-mail. firstname.lastname@example.org Alex Klenov
Any queries ask contact Alex Klenov.
12-14 October - International 4th Climbing Festival in Demir Kapija
& "On-sight Marathon-2012"
Dates : 12-14 October, 2012
Place : Demir Kapija, Macedonia
(the nearest airport Skopje - 117 km, Ohrid - 195 km)
12 October - day of arrival, placement and registration of participants.
The specified applications for participation are accepted in Demir
Kapija, restaurant "KUCHKIN" near the school stadium from
18 to 21 o'clock, preliminary applications a request to send by
e-mail on VAKLEN_RU@YAHOO.COM till October 10 2012.
13 October - from sunrise (06-45) to sunset (17-55)
"Rock Trip" of the Man and Woman
- Each pair of rock-climbers during the day any way (on the first-come,
first-served basis, on any of area massifs) chooses and tries to
climb through routes in Red point style (that is, without lag on
intermediate points from top to bottom). Successful attempts are
independently fixed in cards. In unsuccessful attempt it is possible
to try to climb once again, having risen in the turn end on the
route. At 19-30 participants should hand over cards and judges will
reveal winners of a stage and finalists on a score of the passable
routes. Offset personal. Results are calculated for two groups of
athletes A and B. A - climbing under category 6 c + difficulties
, B - 7A and above. Awarding ceremony for climbing marathon! Some
video presentation after.
14 October - the beginning 9-00 Ending
"On-sight Marathon" - the Final of difficulty climbing
for 10 leaders men and women ( 5 participants from groups A and
3 obligatory routes consecutive "On-sight". Winners is
determined by the sum of heights of lifting on three routes; at
equality of results the athlete who has spent the smallest total
time for complete overcoming wins
In parallel - the route for beginners "First step"
- one route with the top rope, difficulty climbing (taking into
account time for finishing climbers) ;
18-00 Closing, rewardings.
The winners of the competition are defined by the main board of
judges according to the regulations. Rewarding is financed by organizers
REQUIREMENTS TO PARTICIPANTS:
It is necessary for all participants of a festival to provide at
The policy of assurance of accident in rock-climbing
" To participation in "First step" it is enough to
execute the first point.
" Pairs created in advance or on a place of competitions by
agreement area allowed to participation in "Climbing marathon".
The participants provide their safety themselves (they belay each
other on the routes), so they must have appropriate skills of dealing
with belaying and they must also have their own equipment that corresponds
to the requirements of UIAA.
" Minors are allowed only under responsibility of parents or
the personal trainer.
" Depending on the place of residence chosen by you, you can
be necessary: equipment for a bivouac and a lodging for the night;
the gas equipment or kerosene stoves for cooking; capacities for
drinking water; the set of clothes corresponding to climatic conditions.
It is recommended to have antitick-borne inoculations and means
for protection against insects.
Safety: The participants provide their safety themselves (they belay
each other on the routes), so they must have appropriate skills
of dealing with belaying and they must also have their own equipment
that corresponds to the requirements of UIAA.
Scoring and rewarding:
Financing: Financing support is provided by sponsors and organizers.
Transfer, accommodation and meals for participants is financed by
their means and their sending organization.
Area information: The first climb was made in 1978. On the 5-th
of October during the visit of Josip Broz Tito (the President of
Yugoslavia) in Macedonia, three climbers made the first ascent here
and named the route in his honour - "Titova". The climbers
were Jovan Poposki, Vasil Frangovski and Milan Santo.
After this climb in the following years more macedonian climbers
will start visiting this area more often and climb more and more
new lines, turning it into a regular playground for the next generations.
Today there are over 20 multipitch routes starting on different
parts of the rock and over 70 short (sport) routes in few sectors...
Convenient way is to use the train which reaches Demir Kapija from
Skopje only for 2 hours.
By car. Take the M1 (E75) highway from Skopje towards Gevgelija
and after driving some 120km you'll reach the small settlement of
Demir Kapija. Don't take the exit for the town but continue further
down the road and park the car after the first tunnel (between the
2 tunnels there are few parking spots on both sides of the road).
The approach: The river Vardar separates the settlement of Demir
Kapija from the big limestone rockface that rises up right from
the left bank of the river - making it hard to approach for climbing.
The easiest and fastest way to approach the routes is to start from
between the tunnels. For the trad routes on the main face when looking
towards the second tunnel go down to the right - follow the stream
for about 100 meters. When you'll see the river (river Vardar) go
to the right towards the rock and look for the fix steel cord that
will take you towards the routes - traversing over the river...
Food and accommodation: Camping, hut, hotel...There are many places
where you can set up a camp (for example on the meadow to the left
in front of the first tunnel or if possible near the place where
the "stream" enters river Vardar - near the start of the
travesre). Also you can contact the Macedonian sport-climbing federation
and make arrangements about using the hut "Kalabaster"
situated in Demir Kapija. There are many places where you can eat
or buy your own food and drinks in Demir Kapija... If looking for
more luxorious accomodation - we suggest the Popova Kula winery
This program is preliminary - there may be minor changes