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"Он-сайт Марафон" в Македонии

"Он-сайт Марафон" и программа "Скалы для каждого"
гостит в Македонии.

C 30 сентября в Демир Капия (Македония) проходил очередной семинар Александра Кленова для подготовщиков трасс на естественном рельефе. В этот раз, компания будующих "rout setters" была из Гамбургской секции DAV.
В процессе подготовки возникло 12 маршрутов от 5с до 7в категории трудности, которые станут финальными трассами скального фестиваля в Македониии, который пройдет в формате "On-sight Marathon" 12 -14 октября 2012.

12 октября - день заезда и регистрация в кафе под кодовым названием "Кучкин" , Демир Капия, Македония
13 октября - лазание в фестивальном формате "Climbing marathon". От восхода до заката скалолазы стараются пролезть "ред поинтом" максимальное количество трасс набирая баллы в зависимости от трудности трассы. Зачет проходит в двух категориях:
1. Группа A лазающих до 6с+ ,
2.Группа B лазающих от 7a и выше.
До 20-00 необходимо предоставить результаты судейской колегии
21.00h - награждение победителей "Climbing marathon".
Награждение пройдет в клубе и плавно перетечет в местный кофе бар.
14октября (Воскресенье)
"On sight marathon" для лучшей пятерки мужчин и женщин групп А и В который выявит абсолютных победителей фестиваля.
В тот же день пройдет награждение и конечно, не удастся обойтись без "пати"

У кого есть время приезжайте!
Билет от Москвы до Скопье от 10 до 15 тыс.руб. От Скопье електричкой 2 часа до Демир Капия стоимость примерно 200р. Проживание с питанием можно уложится в 15 евро.
Виза Россиянам и Казахстанцам в этом году не нужна. Погода последние две недели 25-30 градусов днем.
Контакты: vaklen_ru@yahoo.com
Тел +38978686066

"International route-setting seminar on the nature rocks and
CLIMBING FESTIVAL & "On-sight Marathon-2012", Demir Kapija- MACEDONIA

October 2012 - Demir Kapija,
(From Skopje - 117 km, from Ohrid - 195 km)
Strengthening of friendship and an exchange of experience - cultures between fans of mountains and rocks from the different countries of the world. Promoting healthy sporting lifestyle. Creating teams of route setters for making and maintaining routes. Promoting rock climbing on the nature rocks. Climbing with local climbers and international guests. Development of the rocky area Demir Kapija as perspective place on the Balkans for trainings of rock-climbers, climbers, tourists and fans of outdoor activities. The experience transfer from the strongest climbers to beginners. Seminar and the On-sight Marathon festival - a component of the Alexander Klenov's long-term public program - "Rocks for everybody"
DAV and Alex Klenov.
The program is aimed at climbers, alpinists, tourists and for everybody who is keen on active rest irrespective of level of rock-climbing experience.

30.09.12 - 7.10.12
"International route setting's seminar in the natural rocks- VARDAR 2012"

" Route setting Ethics
" Exchange of experience
" Conducting training for participants according to international standards of safety
" Estimating of routes difficulty
" Practical route-setting
e-mail. vaklen_ru@yahoo.com Alex Klenov

Any queries ask contact Alex Klenov.


12-14 October - International 4th Climbing Festival in Demir Kapija & "On-sight Marathon-2012"

Dates : 12-14 October, 2012
Place : Demir Kapija, Macedonia
(the nearest airport Skopje - 117 km, Ohrid - 195 km)

12 October - day of arrival, placement and registration of participants. The specified applications for participation are accepted in Demir Kapija, restaurant "KUCHKIN" near the school stadium from 18 to 21 o'clock, preliminary applications a request to send by e-mail on VAKLEN_RU@YAHOO.COM till October 10 2012.
13 October - from sunrise (06-45) to sunset (17-55)
"Rock Trip" of the Man and Woman
- Each pair of rock-climbers during the day any way (on the first-come, first-served basis, on any of area massifs) chooses and tries to climb through routes in Red point style (that is, without lag on intermediate points from top to bottom). Successful attempts are independently fixed in cards. In unsuccessful attempt it is possible to try to climb once again, having risen in the turn end on the route. At 19-30 participants should hand over cards and judges will reveal winners of a stage and finalists on a score of the passable routes. Offset personal. Results are calculated for two groups of athletes A and B. A - climbing under category 6 c + difficulties , B - 7A and above. Awarding ceremony for climbing marathon! Some video presentation after.
14 October - the beginning 9-00 Ending
"On-sight Marathon" - the Final of difficulty climbing for 10 leaders men and women ( 5 participants from groups A and B) .
3 obligatory routes consecutive "On-sight". Winners is determined by the sum of heights of lifting on three routes; at equality of results the athlete who has spent the smallest total time for complete overcoming wins
In parallel - the route for beginners "First step"
- one route with the top rope, difficulty climbing (taking into account time for finishing climbers) ;
18-00 Closing, rewardings.
The winners of the competition are defined by the main board of judges according to the regulations. Rewarding is financed by organizers and sponsors.
It is necessary for all participants of a festival to provide at registration:
The policy of assurance of accident in rock-climbing
" To participation in "First step" it is enough to execute the first point.
" Pairs created in advance or on a place of competitions by agreement area allowed to participation in "Climbing marathon". The participants provide their safety themselves (they belay each other on the routes), so they must have appropriate skills of dealing with belaying and they must also have their own equipment that corresponds to the requirements of UIAA.
" Minors are allowed only under responsibility of parents or the personal trainer.
" Depending on the place of residence chosen by you, you can be necessary: equipment for a bivouac and a lodging for the night; the gas equipment or kerosene stoves for cooking; capacities for drinking water; the set of clothes corresponding to climatic conditions. It is recommended to have antitick-borne inoculations and means for protection against insects.
Safety: The participants provide their safety themselves (they belay each other on the routes), so they must have appropriate skills of dealing with belaying and they must also have their own equipment that corresponds to the requirements of UIAA.
Scoring and rewarding:
Financing: Financing support is provided by sponsors and organizers. Transfer, accommodation and meals for participants is financed by their means and their sending organization.
Area information: The first climb was made in 1978. On the 5-th of October during the visit of Josip Broz Tito (the President of Yugoslavia) in Macedonia, three climbers made the first ascent here and named the route in his honour - "Titova". The climbers were Jovan Poposki, Vasil Frangovski and Milan Santo.
After this climb in the following years more macedonian climbers will start visiting this area more often and climb more and more new lines, turning it into a regular playground for the next generations. Today there are over 20 multipitch routes starting on different parts of the rock and over 70 short (sport) routes in few sectors...
Getting there:
Convenient way is to use the train which reaches Demir Kapija from Skopje only for 2 hours.
By car. Take the M1 (E75) highway from Skopje towards Gevgelija and after driving some 120km you'll reach the small settlement of Demir Kapija. Don't take the exit for the town but continue further down the road and park the car after the first tunnel (between the 2 tunnels there are few parking spots on both sides of the road).

The approach: The river Vardar separates the settlement of Demir Kapija from the big limestone rockface that rises up right from the left bank of the river - making it hard to approach for climbing. The easiest and fastest way to approach the routes is to start from between the tunnels. For the trad routes on the main face when looking towards the second tunnel go down to the right - follow the stream for about 100 meters. When you'll see the river (river Vardar) go to the right towards the rock and look for the fix steel cord that will take you towards the routes - traversing over the river...
Food and accommodation: Camping, hut, hotel...There are many places where you can set up a camp (for example on the meadow to the left in front of the first tunnel or if possible near the place where the "stream" enters river Vardar - near the start of the travesre). Also you can contact the Macedonian sport-climbing federation and make arrangements about using the hut "Kalabaster" situated in Demir Kapija. There are many places where you can eat or buy your own food and drinks in Demir Kapija... If looking for more luxorious accomodation - we suggest the Popova Kula winery and hotel...

This program is preliminary - there may be minor changes